Back in 2010 I took a trip to Ireland with my Mum.
It was the first time either of us had travelled to the Emerald Isle, and our destination of choice was the stunning Ring of Kerry. Here's a review I wrote freelance for travelbite.co.uk at the time...
Fifteen minutes from Kerry airport my Mum and I pulled over the car and clambered up a ridge. When we got through the trees and saw the view we looked at each other and grinned, it was safe to say we both fell in love with Ireland instantly.
Despite being in awe of the spectacular view we were witnessing, I felt a pang of shame, and possibly guilt, that it had taken me so long to make the short trip to the emerald isle.
The desire to explore and visit far flung countries, immersing oneself in 'culture shock' has become so much the norm these days that many of us, myself included, forget we can experience something just as wonderful on our doorstep.
As we wound our way down through the Ring of Kerry towards Kenmare my Mum and I realised just what we'd been missing out on all these years by never visiting Ireland, and together made a promise to come back again very soon; and we were still only a half hour from the airport.
We pulled the car over at Ladies View which was named after the pleasure expressed by the Ladies in Waiting of Queen Victoria on a visit to the site. Unfortunately we arrived very early in the day and the pub at Ladies View was not open, so we carried on south through the Killarney National Park towards our destination: Kenmare.
Our hotel in Kenmare, the Sheen Falls Lodge, was just a few minutes from the quaint town. Reception greeted us warmly, sitting us down next to a huge log fire with coffee and croissants while we checked in. The staff immediately set a precedent for our visit, being helpful, informative, and going out of their way to answer our endless list of questions about the surrounding area.
We were shown to an immaculate room with spectacular views of the Sheen River falls which run through the grounds of the hotel. The little touches such as homemade chocolates and recipe books from the Relais and Chateaux hotel restaurants made the room feel comforting and warm, and we were reluctant to leave it to head down to the spa.
As my Mum sat relaxing in the jacuzzi I was treated to a full body massage by the hotel's in-house beauty therapist Isobel, who was a fantastic ambassador for the hotel's 'spa weekend' appeal. The spa is a real draw for visitors to Sheen Falls Lodge, which was perfectly exemplified by the chilled out looking women who sat lounging around the indoor pool dressed in thick white robes. An ideal start to the trip, I left the massage room considerably more relaxed and with my sore shoulder feeling miraculously better.
Feeling like we were walking on air we decided to take a short ramble around the grounds and were met by babbling brooks, immaculately kept gardens and the most breathtaking countryside. And what made our walk all the more lovely were the smiley greetings we received from all the locals we happened upon.
Sheen Falls Lodge is set in truly spectacular countryside, and many of the activities for guests use the landscape as a backdrop. There is an 18-hole golf course, stables for horse trekking, salmon fishing and walking. As well as the hotel there are a number of exclusive villas available for rent, and with their gingerbread house style and open fires they looked particularly tempting for anyone considering a Christmas break.
When we got back to the hotel we treated ourselves to afternoon tea with homemade scones. Some of those guests sat near to us had gone for the 'full works' (which would have easily competed alongside Tea at the Ritz) and on a personal recommendation, even if you are unable to stay at Sheen Falls, if you're lucky enough to be in the area then drop in for afternoon tea in the lounge overlooking the falls - real bliss.
About to head back upstairs to our room, we took a detour and decided to take up the hotel's daily offer of a tour around their wine cellar - which they claim is the largest privately owned collection in the country.
French sommelier Mathieu talked us through the various vintages, as well as the exclusive bottles, which included one from 1949 and another costing £3,000. We told him we were dining in the hotel's restaurant that evening and he recommended wines suited to our tastes.
Later, as we sat at a table overlooking the Sheen Falls, Mathieu came over with a bottle he had chosen for us, taking into account our likes and dislikes and what we had chosen from the menu.
His choice was perfect, and we enjoyed his well-chosen drop of the grape alongside a sumptuous and very locally-sourced menu. Being so close to the sea there was some beautifully prepared fresh fish on the menu, which both my Mum and I took full advantage of for our mains, but I couldn't resist the pigeon with black pudding for my starter; which was the single most delicious thing I have ever tasted.
Dessert was just as delectable, and my Mum's choice of a baby pineapple filled with homemade pineapple ice cream made me green with envy.
After a very comfortable night's rest we made our way downstairs for a full Irish breakfast (complete with local smoked salmon and black and white puddings), which again was delicious.
Over breakfast we noticed many of the guests were American, and when we got talking to them discovered some had come across the Atlantic to rediscover their family heritage. It was at this point I remembered my grandmother was originally from nearby Cork, and again the guilt of having never visited Ireland before this trip came over me.
Sad to leave the luxury of Sheen Falls we headed into nearby Kenmare with its beautiful display of painted buildings and independent shops and restaurants. We struggled to find anywhere that wasn't local, with the dreaded chain store seeming to have completely by-passed this sleepy part of Ireland.
It wasn't hard to see just how popular the town is, as coaches brimming with tourists from all corners of the world came in their droves to marvel at Kenmare.again I heard very few accents from the British Isles, and wondered why the 'staycation' trend hasn't made it to Kenmare yet.
One shop in Kenmare I must advocate a visit to is handmade jewellers PFK - their collection is really unique and very tempting. My Mum and I gave our credit cards a desperate look before deciding we'd been treated enough, but I'm not sure my will power to resist a little jewellery purchase will be as strong on my return visit (and yes, I've already pencilled one into my diary).
After cappuccinos and some compulsory Irish present buying we headed back up through the national park to Killarney. A much bigger town, Killarney has a lot of shops, and most importantly a lot of Jaunting Cars. While we unfortunately didn't have time for a ride in one, these traditional horsedrawn carriages are a real tourist attraction, and for good reason.
We made a quick pit-stop in a local cafe for lunch and then reluctantly got back on the road to Kerry airport, dodging the odd pony and trap on our way.
For anyone who hasn't been to Kerry airport it really is tiny. You gain the distinct impression it is the same member of staff fulfilling numerous airport tasks (but just wearing a different hat), and I have to say it was a pleasant change to have a stress-free airport experience, without having to wait hours in security queues or being bombarded by duty free outlets.
As we flew back to London I asked my Mum to sum up our little break to Ireland. I scribbled down "outstandingly beautiful" and "positively breathtaking" . and have to say, I completely agreed.
To plan your trip to Ireland visit Discover Ireland or call them on 0800 039 7000.
